During all of this, the engines and pylons were painted. Despite being rather small bits, they require the same three colors that the rest of the aircraft does as well as some extra. The pylons are in the grey color. These were then masked and the cowlings painted white. Then the body was masked and just the edges of the intake and the inside of the intake were painted aluminum. The exhaust cones are two colors, aluminum and a darker metal. I used Magnesium. Again, the Aluminum Metallizer was masked with no problems. The landing gear components and wheel wells are grey (like the underside) and the wheels are aluminum.

Next step was to apply the Bare Metal Foil (BMF) on the leading edges of the tail, tailplanes and wings. This stuff really is great. The one thing those of you new to it will notice, is that you tend to waste most of it. This cannot be helped as you want to make sure you have enough to cover the spot. Putting it on is actually quite simple. Just follow the steps below. The pictures of various steps are numbered and shown below.

First, you cut a section out of the sheet. By this, I don't mean you actually cut the backing, but you do want to slice through the foil itself. A new blade is paramount for using BMF. Take the piece and place it over the area to be foiled (1). Then burnish down one side of it. I use an Xacto knife handle wrapped in tape(2). The tape is softer than the handle and has some give to it. You can also use a toothpick as it is handy for tight places. Once the one side is burnished down, you'll see where to cut it. In this case it is a slat groove. Cut one side and remove the excess(3). Then burnish it down again to smooth out any ragged edges you may have from cutting it(4). 

Burnish the rest of the BMF around the leading edge and onto the underside. Again, cut the BMF(5). I make sure that I cut the foil at a natural break in the aircraft metal like a panel line or something similar. This is especially helpful when doing a long area. That way, you can do it in segments. If there are no seams to follow, as on the tail, then you just have to freehand it. Others have told me that they can burnish overlapping foil areas and have the seam disappear, but I have never been able to do it to my satisfaction. Once the foil is cut, then carefully remove the excess(6). Then burnish this piece down on the aircraft. If you want, you can follow up by burnishing the completed section with a Q-tip or cotton bud. That will help push the foil into seams. After all the areas are finished(7), you are ready to go onto the next stage.

Once finished with the BMF, I used a product by Liveries Unlimited called Corroguard Inspar Panels. These are decals that are used for the sections in the middle of wings and stabilizers. On real airliners, these areas are treated with a material called Corroguard that helps prevent corrosion. These decals duplicate that material and save you having to paint them in. They are available for all sorts of aircraft in both 1/144 and 1/200 scale and cost between $2-$5 depending on the aircraft. Naturally a set for the 747 will be more expensive than for a DC-9. They are easy to apply and really look nice when done.

Next the decals were applied. I used Liveries Unlimited set AGA2-101 for an Ethiopian Airlines 767-200. It is a very nice and colorful scheme and hasn't been turned into a billboard like so many other airlines. The first parts I applied were the cockpit windows and the tail markings. I did the cockpit early so that I would have a reference for the cheat line and cabin windows.  The next part to be added was the cheat line. This will determine the placement of most of the rest of the decals. I lined mine up and made sure it went through the tail plane attachment slot. It is important that you do NOT glue the tailplanes on this kit until the very end or this sequence will be a real disaster as you can see from the images below. I also put on the big tail marking at this time.

Once the cheat lines are in place and dry, you can add the fore and aft cabin doors. It was at this time that I discovered that I put my cheat line too high! Well, this makes error # 5,384,704 in my modeling career!  I just had to grin and bear it as my success rate with refloating decals of this size is about zero. Once the fore and aft cabin doors were in place and dry, I put on the first of the cabin windows. The front one is rather easy to put in place. Just remember not to put them in backwards. The part with all the gaps is to the aft. The rear section looks like a uniform row, but you'll notice one decal slightly farther away from the others. This is for the emergency exit so needs to go to the front of that decal section. 

Once those are dry, there is another decal that overlays them that is for window frames. You can omit it if you wish and no-one would be the wiser as they are not very obvious. I used them. Now you can put on the wing emergency exit door. It goes over the one window in the aft section that stands a bit apart of the others. Once that is on and dry, you can place the wing emergency exit walkway under that door. 

The rest of the decals are pretty easy to put on. Just follow the guide and take your time. The most difficult of the other decals is the black outline to the lion on the front of the cheat line. Again, easy does it. The 'Boeing 767-200' logos for aft of the rear cabin door are handed so make sure the proper one goes on the proper side. Throughout the decaling operation I used the Microscale setting solutions. These work very well and don't cause the colors to bleed, a problem you may encounter with stronger solutions. After the decals are good and dry, wipe down the aircraft with water and dry it thoroughly. You can then spray on your favourite clear overcoat to seal them in.

Now you should have a pretty complete-looking aircraft. The only things left to put on it are the horizontal stabilizers, engines, and the landing gear stuff. With my kit, the stabilizers just snapped into place without the need for glue. Same with the engines and pylons. The landing gear components that had previously been painted, were now assembled. I don't know about you, but painting all those tiny wheels was not my idea of tons of fun. I'm just glad I wasn't building a C-5! These were then glued into place in their respective locations.

The final constructions of sorts consisted of snapping the nose gear into place as well as gluing the main landing gear and struts into the wings. A helpful hint is to let the gear dry with the weight of the aircraft on it. That way you can be sure that all the wheels touch the ground. Make sure this is done on a solid, flat surface. Last but not least, the engines were pressed into place under the wings. As you may have noticed, I prefer to press fit as much as possible. This leaves less chance for glue to mess something up, especially with all the decals used on this aircraft.